Thursday, November 16, 2006

Once in a Blue Cheese

For years I resisted blue cheese. As a youth, the idea of eating visible mold galled me, and, I'm sure, I was rebelling in some sense to my mother's love of blue cheese. Nowadays, my tastes have matured, and I'm a huge fan of blue cheeses. I enjoy pairing blue cheeses with pears and figs or using them as a garnish for pasta or salad. They also make great a great addition to omelettes, quiches, and sauces.

Here's a quick overview of some decent blues.

Roquefort
The "King of Cheese" to many, Roquefort is a blue with a pedigree going back to Roman times. It is a ewe's milk cheese from the Pyrenees with the characteristic salty tang of a strong blue cheese. It's shame to hide the taste of Roquefort in a sauce or mask it inside a larger dish, so I prefer saving Roquefort for simple dishes with fruit or on a cheese board.

Bleu d'Auvergne
Roquefort is also a shame to put into pasta or other dishes where it isn't standing by itself due to its price. So when I want a Roquefort flavor in a sauce or other dish, I reach for Bleu d'Auvergne. It's a blue with a flavor quite similar to Roquefort: it's a strong, salty, robust blue. It's also half the price, making it suitable for everyday use when on a budget (as the wily grad student is likely to be). Don't think that Auvergne is merely a poor man's Roquefort; it holds its own against the "king" of cheese -- some of my friends say it even bests it.

Bleu de Gex
For those with palates that favor a milder taste, Bleu de Gex is a good choice -- and it happens to be my local cheese. As a resident of Pays Gex, this is an easy cheese to get in the stores. It's a little creamier than Roquefort and Auvergne, making it easier to use in quiche or sauce. Straight up, I prefer stronger blues; I don't think Bleu de Gex stands by itself as well as it could due to its mild flavor.

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